Queenbee X axis assembly

 

0. DO NOT combine the 2040 and C beam rails

Contrary to the Y axis rails, the X axis rail does not require combining the 2040 rail and C beam.

Leave them separate!

 

1. Prepare the linear guides

Put an M4 x 14mm screw in each hole, and a sliding t nut – do not tighten these yet:

 

2. Attach linear guides to the C beams:

Slide the linear guides onto the C beams and fixate them:

 

 

3. Put on the linear bearings:

Slide the linear bearings onto the linear guides – keep them really next to them when transferring from the plastic onto the linear guides so that no metal balls escape:

Do this 2 per linear guide:

 

4. Prepare the X axis ballscrew

This step is a bit different from the other QueenBee PRO assembly instructions that you will find elsewhere. Because we ship with ballscrews, these need to be prepared.

At a ballscrew bearing holder and watch closely the orientation of the ballscrew bearing holder relative to the machined ends of the ballscrew – do as in the picture and attach with M4 x 14mm or M4 x 16mm screws:

DO NOT REMOVE THE BALLSCREW BEARING FROM THE BALLSCREW. IT WILL NOT BE POSSIBLE TO USE IT AGAIN (tiny little balls will fall out and get lost)

 

5. Attach the ballscrews to the X axis plates

This step is a bit different from the other QueenBee PRO assembly instructions that you will find elsewhere. Because we ship with ballscrews, these CANNOT be separated from the round ballscrew bearings.

Use 2 M5 x 20mm socket screws to attach the the bearing holder, but this time watch that the curved part sticks out:

If you have CNC machined black plates, then you also need a Z axis spacer block (between the plate and the ballscrew bearing holder):

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6. Attach the X axis plates to the linear bearings

This step is a bit different from the other QueenBee PRO assembly instructions that you will find elsewhere:

It requires a 1mm spacer plate between each linear bearing and X plate, just like you used for the Y axis plates:

If you have CNC machined black plates, then you also need an extra 6mm spacer plate (on top of the 1mm spacer plate.

Use special M4 x 14mm small head socket screws

7. Attach the ballscrew floating end

Put the 8mm end of the ballscrew through the Y plates

And attach the C beam with 15mm low profile screws to the Y plate

And put a F688ZZ flanged bearing:

Then put a 8mm precision shim:

And a circlip – use special tools if needed:

 

8. Attach the ballscrew fixed (tensioning) end

Put the a 10mm lock collar, a 10mm precision shim and a 1016 bearing on the 10mm machined end of the ballscrew:

 

If you experience some difficulties in putting these on, then it is also sufficient if you just put on the 1016 bearing:

Put the 10mm end of the ballscrew through the other Y plates

And attach the C beam with 15mm low profile screws to the Y plate

And at the outer side, put on a 10mm thrust bearing and an M10*1 precision nut to put the ballscrew under some tension – but still to maintain good rotation (must feel smooth rotation), just like you did for the Y axis.

You can leave out the shims and directly allow the rotation on the plate and precision nut if better to have enough thread use:

 

9. Attach the Y axis plates to the X axis C beam

Attach the C beam with 15mm low profile screws to the Y plate

 

10. Add countersink to the Y axis plate of the motor side / fixed (tensioning) end

The Y axis at the motor end will have 2 screws that need a 1.5mm countersink into the aluminium in order to lower the M15. You can use a 9mm or 10mm metal drill to make a 1.5mm deep countersink into the aluminium so that the head of these 2 screws becomes level to the aluminium surface:

 

11. Add the 2040 rail

Behind the C beam, there is space for the 2040 rail for extra rigidity. Attach it with 15mm low profile screws

 

12. Add rigidity with 90 degree corner brackets

The C beam and the 2040 rail can be attached even better to the Y plates with 90 degree corner brackets and 8mm low profile screws

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